More Pics

Mugaas, Daniel, and John doing their construction-worker-serious looks.

A giant cistern in Masada

Hermon Springs

Waterfowl taking off in flight at the Sea of Galilee

Candles in the Greek Orthodox part of the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem

More Pictures

Me at Tel Megiddo otherwise known as Armageddon (Har Megiddo or the Megiddo Hill/Mt. for those of you who know Hebrew)

Lunch one day - a fish from the Sea of Galilee (and it was one of the best meals we had!)

Playing football with some local kids in Bethlehem! Ole, ole, ole!

The wall or "security fence" separating Israel from the West Bank in Bethlehem.

Some of My Favorite Pictures

A path at Bet She'an.

Daniel enjoying the view at the Mediterranean in Caesarea

Myself, Karis, Mugaas, and Lindsay protesting with the Women in Black. Our signs say "STOP THE OCCUPATION."

Tony reflecting at the Church of the Beatitudes.

The group with Adnan (the third in on the bottom) at the hooka bar and restaurant in Bethlehem.

(More pictures forthcoming)

The Calm Before the Storm

Alright, this is going to be my sorry attempt to catch up a bit on blogging or at least get some of the postings up that I meant to. Things got a bit busy in Jerusalem to say the least and we barely had any free time during the day and my internet time was very limited. So here goes...

This post was meant to go up on Tuesday, January 24th.

After a particularly heated group discussion with the group, a Jewish Rabbi, and some German University students that were also visiting Israel and Palestine and a very frustrating attempt to try to talk some sense into our professor that went nowhere, I found myself needing some solitude. I was tired, frustrated, and in need of some time to process all that had happened in the past couple of hours. I wandered up to the roof of our hostel by myself. It had rained about an hour earlier and the wind was still moving. The Old City at night is quite the site. There were no skyscrapers to obstruct views so you could see for miles around.

As I stood there and slowly relaxed myself, I noticed for the first time how quiet it was. I was in the middle of a city with a huge population and yet there was nothing. There weren't people on the streets talking. There were no cars (granted cars can't get around the Old City to easily especially where we were). There was just the wind. I continued to stand there and let this realization sink in.

As I did this I thought about the timing. It was the night before the election of the Palestinian Parliment. What this would mean for Palestine no one knew. People were excited, scared, hopeful, and the whole gamut of emotions. I had no idea what to expect. I wasn't scared for what the actual act of voting would bring. The Palestinians had elected their new leader, Abbas, after Arafat with no incident. But, this was just a small part something much bigger that I had been exposed to since I got to the Holy Land. Israel and Palestine. How was this ever going to work? Could it even work? Was there a solution? We had just spent the last half an hour talking about whether there was one or not. No one (save one of us which I don't consider legitimate) had answers.

A quote from the Bishop of the Lutheran Church of Jordan and the Holy Land that we had met the day before kept coming to mind. "Pray for us because the worst is yet to come." As I stood there in the silence I had the feeling that the silence in the city, no matter what it represented, wouldn't last too much longer whether it be because of the elections, the occupation, the wall, the tension between the peoples in the land. Either way, I also knew that the silence had to end. At this point the storm was inevitable...

Last Day...

Hey everyone, this is going to be short because I don't have much time but I just wanted to say hi and let you know that I'm still doing fine and kicking here in Jerusalem. We leave this amazing place in about 12 hours and I still find that hard to believe. This place, people, and their stories have changed my life. I will blog more when I get home and have more time so keep checking up on this because I have stuff to write about Jerusalem, the elections, the sights, and everything inbetween. Thanks for reading this and I love you all and can't wait to see some of you at least in a day or two. Shalom/Salam/Peace and God/Allah/Adonai bless!

Adventures with Adnan III

The next night...

By this time Adnan's fame had spread throughout our group and this time a large group came to the store with us. Hospitality was not lacking again and we had snacks, juice, and drinks for the second night in a row. People did a bit of shopping this time but there was plenty of fun after the business portion of the night. After the group thinned out again we had some good laughs and met a few of Adnan's friends that included some very nice Palestinian policemen. We got pictures, talked some more about life, made some new jokes, and made Adnan promise that we could treat him out the next night.

So, the next night rolls around and a group of us is ready to go out. Part of the plan was to find a place that had water pipes or hookas (nageelas here) because a couple of us either wanted one or to try one. So, Adnan had the hook up and we all rode in his taxi and his friend's car to this great restaraunt a couple blocks away from the store. We got some scotch, vodka, and a lot of water pipes and just sat back, relaxed, talked, and enjoyed each other company. We all had a great time even though it was very mellow. I must confess, I tried the water pipe which was interesting because I have honestly never smoked anything in my life. It was apple tobacco (not weed or anything in these, just tobacco) which sounds weird but is really good. It was fun and I didn't really feel anything (and anything I did which as little I attribute to the scotch). It was great conversation and the perfect way to spend our last night in Bethlehem.

This was authentic tourism at its best!!! I think most of us learned more from Adnan than we did from seeing the sites or listening to our tour guide (who is awesome I must say but you know what I mean). This was a real person who is living in this situation and his views were honest and real. This is what keeps me grounded and reminds me why I am here. His story is something I will carry with me home from this trip and that I hope to share with people. It shows that this occupation is more than just a large cement wall. It affects the people and their lives in ways we can't imagine till we hear it first hand. So, this has been the very short, abbreviated of a shopkeeper named Adnan who welcomed us with open arms, showed us what it means to be a Palestinian Christian, what hospitality should be like, and that there is hope to be found.

Jerusalem Finally!

We are here. Jerusalem! And it was all that we thought it was going to be and more!!! The first night we actually dropped our stuff off and then went back to Bethlehem where it all started to see a Palestinian dance program. This was one of the coolest things I've seen on the whole trip. I love music and dance as most of you know and it very cool to be so stimulated for 1.5 hours. The dance movement is so hard to explain but I loved watching their hand movements. They were very graceful and yet rhythmic (Note: I also apologize for all the spelling errors on this blog as a whole, the spellcheck doesn't work here). Plus, they did put a political spin on it and yet there was a message of hope at the end. The dancers were also all kids, grades 4-12 probably from the refugee camp that we had visited earlier which made this all the more poignant.

Then, Jerusalem!!! That night we decided to start out with a bang and a group of us (Karis, Mugaas, Lindsay, Mark, John, Daniel, and I and a friend who knows the area) went out in search of a good club or bar. It was also Mugaas and Karis' birthdays so we had more reason to celebrate. :) We found a dance club/bar in the New City and got down. It was a really cool club for a few reasons. First, the music was all very old school and there were a lot of stuff I didn't recognize but yet it was from the US. Second, it was really diverse! The styles of dance varied and we had people from the US, natives of the area, soldiers, travelers, etc. and it was also very racially diverse which we all really appreciated. Dancing style was also a bit of throwback and included forming a circle and watching people try to break dance. Good times!

Then, today we started our tour of the city. We worshipped at the English Service at the Church of the Redeemer which was great. Even though we do not worship at the exact same time, it really reminds me that there are many of us out there, no matter what denomination that all set aside time to worship and praise God and share in the sacarment of Holy Communion all over the world. I felt very connected to the community of Christians today through that. Then, we talked with the pastor (which I will write about later) which was great and he had a lot of really important things to say. Then, we started touring the city.

First, we are staying in the Old City of Jerusalem which has a lot of the classic buildings and historical-religious sites. There is a Jewish, Christian, Armenians, and Muslim Quarter. We toured the Jewish quarter today which was very cool. There are some old ruins and museusm and most importantly, the Western or Wailing Wall which is the only remaining part of the Jewish temple. People go there to pray and worship which is quite the sight. We went there and I got to go up and touch it and pray a little bit and reflect. I don't quite know what I was expecting but it wasn't what I was expecting. I very much respect my Jewish brothers and sisters and their faith and dedication and their hope. And my beliefs are also tied to theirs. Yet, the wall is something that I don't really connect with. And yet, this wall and this hope of the rebuilding of the temple is such an important issue especially with the Dome of the Rock being there in place of the temple. So, I didn't really know how I felt or what I thought. However, the wall felt cold(not cold as in hot cold) and I don't really think I liked the feel and I don't know why. I'll see if I have any answers in the trip.

Shalom and I'm jealous of all of you that get to watch american football today. ;)

Adventures with Adnan II

Just to remind you, this is back in Bethlehem the first couple of days on the trip...

So, we decided to take Adnan up on his invitation and went back to his store that night along with Lindsay and Paul. And, let me say that the Palestinians should very much be known for their hospitality! He welcomed us with open arms into his store and rolled out the nice rug and grabbed us snacks and liquor. It was more than any of us were expecting. And then we just joked and talked about pretty much anything and everything from the siege on Bethlehem in 2002 to scotch to being a fighter and not a lover (related to relationships) and what he thought about the wall. We were there very late and it was a great experience for all of us and a highlight of the trip. We were invited back for the next night and we knew there was no way we were going to turn down the invitation.

What struck me the most from this conversation and everything was how he has every reason to be bitter and hate the world. Jerusalem is 10 minutes away and he cannot go there. They are basically penned into this city and they cannot leave very easily. Yet, he kept on insisting that we are brothers, Muslims, Jews, Christians, etc. Hearing that from someone who has been affected so much by the wall and the occupation really made an impact on all of us. He is a shop owner, he has a family and four kids and he works so hard for what he has. I can't help but admire his resiliency and his respect and his hope for a better tomorrow. We did ask him what gives him hope. His answer was a both us being here and listening to his story and the hope that is promised in the Bible and in the second coming. So, I find hope in his answer and in his hope for a better tomorrow for him and for his people and for the world.

Marathon Touring II

The next day unfortunately was much of the same. The beginning of the day was actually pretty interesting because we met with a bunch of ""Jewish hippies" as we affectionately called them. They live in a kibbutz which, for those of you who have seen the Village, is kind of like the Jewish equivalent of that except for not creepy. It's based on socialist principles and they all live in a communal setting and pretty much share everything. I know I could never do anything like that but I do admire them for what they do in the kibbutz and the values they uphold. An interesting note though is that all the adults have been trained in the military and they have a bomb shelter.

We also stopped at a site called Tel Dan which was had some cool ruins and then also at this beautiful park that had streams that flow to the river Jordan so we all got some holy water. Plus, we went on this great hike which was a nice contrast from sitting in a bus for four hours...

The rest of the day went a bit downhill. We stopped at a random town and walked around it and stopped in a synagogue for all of 5 minutes. This actually would have been a much more enjoyable and informative experience if we would have had more time. Then, we went to lunch which was a disasater. Basically, we were trying to feed a group of 24 in a restaraunt in under 30 minutes. For those of you who have ever gone on youth retreats you know this is impossible. Then, we went to stand in a site in the rain for 15 minutes for no apparent reason. Needless to say, group morale was down.

However, today it went up again. We stopped at Bet Sheán which is a site full of ancient ruins. The best part was we were given an hour and half to wander around on our own. It was just what everyone needed. Plus, it was sunny out and beautiful. Karis and I ended up on top of some pillars which was great and the view was beautiful. We also stopped at Megiddo or the place where Armageddon will someday take place. This was a really cool site to see and it also does make you wonder...

Then, we finally arrived in Jerusalem for a seven night stay. And let me say, the view from the roof of the hostel we are staying at is to die for. We have the Dome of the Rock on one side along with the Mount of Olive and the Church of the Sepulchre on the other side. It's amazing! It was sunny and warm and I'm looking forward to seeing what the view is for tonite.

Anyway, I miss you all and I'll keep you update on Jerusalem. Shalom!

Marathon Touring

We have spent the last three days in the Nazareth/Galilee area and it's been quite the trip. I like to refer to it as marathon touring and unlike the real marathon, I'd rather not do this again. Basically, we started traveling from Bethlehem to Nazareth where we were staying and stopped at sites along the way. The first day was actually a very good day. We stopped at an organization called MIFTA which stands for key. It is "The Palestinian Initiative for the Promotion of Global Dialogue & Democracy" and what they do is post articles from various sources on this website in order to spread the word and get multiple views out there in circulation and to get people talking about it. The website is: http://www.miftah.org/ I was really impressed by their methods and by the people that talked to us. They had their own opinions and agendas, yes, but it was very educated and they offered counter points as well. It was a breath of fresh air from our Hebron experience. I'd suggest checking out the website and seeing some of the articles.

Then, we went to Caesarea which was a beautiful archeaological site off of the Mediterraean which I really loved. It was windy so the waves were crashing hard and we got some beautiful pictures of the site and of the water. Finally, we arrived in Nazareth which is a cute city and our place has a great view of the surronding area.

The next day was marathon day number one. We started early and hit up four different sites and spent way too much time on the bus. However, we started the day with a boatride on the Sea of Galilee which was a great time. It was quite the trip to be on the water and wonder what it would be like out there during a storm like was the case for Jesus and his disciples. It was beautiful and it was great to see the area and countryside. Then, we started our great church tour. We hit up Capernaum and the Primacy of Peter, the Church of Fishes and Loaves where Jesus fed the 5,000, the Church of the Beatittudes where Jesus gave the sermon of the munt, and the Church of the Annunciation in Nazareth where Jesus was raised. We were basically given 15 minutes at each site which isn't my style. But, the area was beautiful.

I think what hit me the most was the Church of Fishes and Loaves. None of these sites are for sure, it's mainly tradition that places the locations there which isn't necessarily accurate. However, despite all of that, when I was listening to the story of the feeding what struck me was the importance of miracles. Even though this might not be the site, something special had taken place at each of these places and that gave hope and wonder to the people. I certainly believe in miracles now days but they're smaller and simpler. However, I also need to believe that something bigger is possible and that miracles happen every day in small ways and in large ways as well.

Off to the bus, this will be con't later...

Adventures with Adnan Part I

Alright, after all the serious posts I promise this is more of a fun one! :) Also, this story got quite long so it requires a couple different parts.

This story all starts a few days ago after we had already spent our first day in Bethlehem. Daniel, Karis, Mugaas, and I all went in search of an ATM after we had visited the Church of the Nativity. We started walking around and a shop owner that had invited us to his shop the night before met us on the street and invited us in again. We told him our situation and he gave us directions to a machine. In return we promised we would visit his shop after we found the machine. He introduced himself to us as well and his name was Adnan. We followed the directions and found the ATM. And there was much rejoicing. However, the machine only spit out hundred dollar bills which is not good here especially when you are bartering. Therefore, we need a money changer. There was a Western Union by Adnan's shop so we tried there but to no avail. In the process another shop owner noticed what we were trying to do and offered us his help.

We followed him to his shop which turned out to be a small restaraunt and not a moneychaging place. So, we ended up giving him our money which was strange. Handing over $400 to a complete stranger is not normal and it kind of just happened but we figured since there was four of us we would be fine. He had us sit down and we ordered food while we waited for our money. The food was really good too! So, he came back and gave us our sheckels for a very fair exchange rate and then we paid for the dinner and ventured to Adnan's store finally.

The store was quaint and smaller than many of the shops we had been in before but he had really nice stuff so we looked around. We bartered of course and I ended up with a fair enough price on my items and then Mugaas was the big spender of the day. We were offered some Turkish coffee which was really good and Daniel bought a couple of things as well. Then, when we were paying we found out that he did not have a credit card machine and Mugaas did not have enough on him for the purchase. Therefore, Adnan offered to drive him to the bank to an ATM machine to take out the money. Now, we had been bartering with Adnan but we had also been talking to him and getting his views on what is going on in Palestine and Israel and about what was going between them and also about what had been happening in Bethlehem. So, we were building trust and a friendship of sorts. So, we all hopped into his car which happened to be a very nice taxi cab actually and headed to the bank which wasn' t far away. We settled up on money and then he dropped us off right at the door of the place where we were staying. He also invited us back to his shop that evening for drinks and food...